I am using OrcaSlicer/BambuStudio with the P1P. Also, the hotend currently has hardened steel gears and a 0.8mm nozzle.
Am I forced to print the lego pieces slowly? Is there a setting or function that I can tweak to slow down my printer when it reaches the tiny circular geometry?
My only advice is that it’s not worth the hassle. If you really want to though, yeah, slower is probably better.
You might be right about that. Still being able to print at that quality or near it, would look good.
Resin, 100%, is your solution. Not FDM.
As great as it is at detail, even resin won’t be perfect. Plus it won’t last if you use it because of the nature of resin.
Perfection is an illusion.
Sure but Lego’s ridiculous tolerances are very real (and very impressive if you ask me).
While I’m also impressed at LEGO for that reason among others, printing in resin is the only way to make proxies even remotely viable — even if such will be fractions of a millimeter off from originals. 🤘🏽
You could probably get good results with something like sintering too but good luck affording that setup lol. FDM might be able to get close but it would take a lot of work to get and keep it there.
IMO, if you didn’t care about pairing with actual Legos, printing a mold might be the way to go (especially if you wanted to make a bunch).
If you wanted to just have something that looked like a Lego brick and you didn’t plan to repeatedly build/rebuild, resin would definitely be the way to go though. I don’t think resin would stand up to regular use though.
Choose your resin carefully and add 10-20% Tenacious, FTW.
I had assumed they were referring to pouring and not a resin printer. Using a mold is definitely a full proof approach.
Absolutely, but even when it looks perfect, it still won’t match the tolerances of actual Lego pieces so it won’t function as well if at all. They’re super meticulous about that stuff and amazing at it especially for a toy company!