My Razer Naga Pro died and I’m absolutely not buying another one for what it costs. But I also can’t seem to find a replacement with the same sort of layout this one had. I’ll link a picture, but I’m essentially looking for a mouse that has a lot of side buttons but still has a place for me to rest my thumb without having to worry about accidentally pressing buttons. I don’t really like 12 button MMO style mice for this reason, as I constantly feel like I’m going to accidentally press a button. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Edit: I also want to note that I’m right handed, and I hate the feel of ambidextrous mice. I like being able to lay my hand on the mouse and know exactly where my fingers are supposed to go.

    • JusticeForPorygon@lemmy.worldOP
      5·
      8 months ago

      I tested the cable on other things and it works fine. I can’t try another cable on the mouse because it’s that bullshit proprietary microusb

      • uis@lemm.ee
        1·
        8 months ago

        Oops, I’m being stupid again. I thought about regular wired mouse. Also I’m assuming mouse is not detected by OS and there is no indication that mouse works at all.

        1. Disassemble mouse
        2. If you have multimeter check cable+socket in continuity mode. Also check soldering joint itself.
        3. After turning mouse on check voltages. On USB power pins it should be 5V. If you find any power converter check output voltage and compare with voltage of IC it powers.
        4. ???
        5. I’ve never made this far in trying to repair my mouse, usually everything became obvious at step 1.

        proprietary microusb

        How microusb can be proprietary? What happened to it?

        • JusticeForPorygon@lemmy.worldOP
          2·
          8 months ago

          Razer has a special mold for the outlets of their mice so that only a micro USB cable with the matching mold (aka the one they sell) can fit it. They probably have some excuse about how it helps hold the cord in place or something but I think it’s dumb as hell. I’ll post a photo when I have a chance.

        • JusticeForPorygon@lemmy.worldOP
          1·
          8 months ago

          Can you explain step 2 as you would to a six year old? This is literally my first time using a multimeter in a practical setting. I know what continuity mode is and that’s about it.

          • uis@lemm.ee
            1·
            8 months ago

            English is not my native language, so my explaination would probably be shit.

            First you select continuity mode(one where shirting probes makes multimeter beep).

            Then you plug cable into disassembled mouse, start with finding where USB shielding connected to by placing(touching with) one probe on outer metal rectangle and metal body and pins of socket one at a time. It is possible for ground and shielding to be shorted, this is how you check for it.

            Then you google “usb type a pinout” and check continuity of all wires and pins. Also check for shorts between them. This is how you check wire and port.

            Checking soldering joints is simply watching at them for obvious cracks. If you can’t find any, then try plugging in mouse while pressing on soldering pads in case of tiny fracture.