What low voltage though? Unless it’s 5V like USB (non-PD and non-QC), they should and need to be incompatible.

does that matter? I though only the voltage and wattage would play a role

Plugging in a random cable from some random manufacturer is not a thing that most people would consider doing. (Furthermore, I doubt that any 220V cable would fit, these connectors on the picture are smaller than they look).

It’s a common safety feature for wet & dry razors. It’s so people don’t take them into the shower or bath while it is plugged in.

Battery charged trimmer lets you shower and trim, which is pretty awesome.

These are smaller plugs than the figure-eight cords you’re thinking of that plug into old boomboxes, Playstations, etc. They’re DC voltage, not AC.

The WTF here is not that the manufacturer changed the connector slightly, it’s that they were too cheap to include the AC-to-DC converter part of it like they did on their older models, so OP has to buy a USB wall wart to power the stupid thing. The fact that he can’t use the old charger with the new shaver is just an irritating side effect.

This is true, but something about being an Electronics Engineer makes you want to check. (I didn’t even trust Philips to get it right, but they did.)

I didn’t go into detail, but simple Dashed/Solid line doesn’t tell you the whole story. Those simple wall warts are not fancy switch mode, or even old school rectified. I measured 14VDC unloaded, which I can probably guestimate in experience, to be a 9VDC loaded reading.

The actual reading on wallwarts are generally untrustworthy, unless its a thing from Samsung or apple, where the circuitry are what you would expect (switched etc).

Pretty sure they never were an insurance company. They’ve always made (consumer) electronics.

They started out as a lamp manufacturer, not insurance.

The one on my phone is though? It even knows when it’s wet and won’t charge until it’s dry.

Many wet-dry rechargeable razors don’t let you run them when they’re plugged in. Power cords + water = ⚡💀 ⚡

You mean cable or socket?

Every cable should be rated minimum 5V 3A, have functional CC, power and data(Dp, Dn) pins as Type C spec requires. Which means it should also be capable of USB PD(still doesn’t need data pins).

AFAIK every in-spec cable should be able to carry 20V 3A.

Problem is not bad standard, problem is non-compliant cables.

If all your devices are USB-C PD rated then you only need to have cables and wall adapters for your highest rated device as all others will only demand what they can tolerate when the handshake happens after plugging in the cable. The only exception would be devuces that don’t follow the spec but use the plug for cost saving reasons which is a completely seperate issue.

I’m with you. Our phones, the laptop, the Switch, even my vape pen, all use USB C, but most of the cables we have only work on half the devices. Kind of defeats the purpose of being “universal”.

One plugs into line voltage

Well, but that’s not what’s coming out of the end that you plug into the razor. The wall plug for it contains a transformer that steps it down to 15V. Would still be a bad idea, but it’s not line voltage.

FYI, to figure this out you would look at the part that plugs into the wall. there’s a bunch of writing on it. at one point it will say something like " input: 120-240 VAC, output: 15 VDC 0.5 A". that’s true for pretty much all transformer bricks. like if you want to see how much a USB brick will supply it will say on there “5V 2A” or whatever.

Remember the good ol’ days where it was barrel jacks or raw terminals regardless of what the device actually worked with?

ahhh, those were the days … of easily breaking things.

looks like the old charger was 15V, while, if the new one is USB-A its 5V

Good ol’ late stage crapitalism!

All that shaving just to shave.