btw, what you’re seeing there is actually brass shavings. That glass bed is like sandpaper to your nozzle. I’d closely inspect it because you’ve likely rolled the brass over the tip by doing this.
Seriously, look at it closer and you’ll see bits of brass. That’s why the color is the way it is.
Additionally – you shouldn’t have this problem so long as you’ve actually rebuilt your hot end correctly. Nozzles have a standard (in the case of the Ender it’s a MK8) and generally even the cheap chinese ones follow that standard very well.
Yeah, the nozzles can survive a little bit of scrape-off like that, but it can change the orifice geometry so just be aware. What model/make of machine/hot end do you have, if you don’t mind my asking? The cheap Ender-style PTFE-lined hot ends are pretty intolerant to just nozzle swaps, and if you have one of those, I have some videos I recommend watching so you know how to rebuild it properly should you ever need to again.
Thanks! It’s a CR10S. Stock Bowden setup, aside from me adding a BL Touch.
One of these days, I’m planning to rebuild the whole assembly into a direct drive extruder… Any day now… Yup. Not like I’ve got half the parts printed out and assembled and sitting in drawer for a year… 😁
Anyway, Happy to watch anything you care to recommend for sure! I’m planning to swap this nozzle out again pretty soon.
I have an Ender 5 Pro and the CR10S. I usually keep a 1mm nozzle on the CR10S and use it for large prints where I just want to throw plastic out as fast as possible. Lately, though I’ve been printing a fuckton of 28mm minis for an upcoming game, so fine nozzles on both!
btw, what you’re seeing there is actually brass shavings. That glass bed is like sandpaper to your nozzle. I’d closely inspect it because you’ve likely rolled the brass over the tip by doing this.
Seriously, look at it closer and you’ll see bits of brass. That’s why the color is the way it is.
Additionally – you shouldn’t have this problem so long as you’ve actually rebuilt your hot end correctly. Nozzles have a standard (in the case of the Ender it’s a MK8) and generally even the cheap chinese ones follow that standard very well.
Thanks for the detail!
Fortunately, in this case I was using a brand new, low-quality nozzle I don’t really care about.
After this, I did indeed notice that I hadn’t tightened the nozzle fully tight and I had some mild “drizzle” escaping down the side.
Since then, I’ve
and… It’s printing fine again.
Even the nozzle was alright… entirely due to dumb luck. 🤦
Yeah, the nozzles can survive a little bit of scrape-off like that, but it can change the orifice geometry so just be aware. What model/make of machine/hot end do you have, if you don’t mind my asking? The cheap Ender-style PTFE-lined hot ends are pretty intolerant to just nozzle swaps, and if you have one of those, I have some videos I recommend watching so you know how to rebuild it properly should you ever need to again.
Thanks! It’s a CR10S. Stock Bowden setup, aside from me adding a BL Touch.
One of these days, I’m planning to rebuild the whole assembly into a direct drive extruder… Any day now… Yup. Not like I’ve got half the parts printed out and assembled and sitting in drawer for a year… 😁
Anyway, Happy to watch anything you care to recommend for sure! I’m planning to swap this nozzle out again pretty soon.
I have an Ender 5 Pro and the CR10S. I usually keep a 1mm nozzle on the CR10S and use it for large prints where I just want to throw plastic out as fast as possible. Lately, though I’ve been printing a fuckton of 28mm minis for an upcoming game, so fine nozzles on both!