atomic peach

Tampermonkey will do what you need. It’s not point and click, but writing the custom script shouldn’t be too difficult for someone very new. You essentially just need to complete a find and replace upon page load. The %2F and similar costs are just ASCII characters in percent-encoding and can easily be parsed.

I’m unsure what benefit you get from this though. It seems skimfeed is just trying to capture which lists and posts get visited so they can adjust the site according to popularity. Doing this via an exit link removes any need for cookies (which I didn’t check for, so maybe this ain’t what they’re using it for).

You can self host with Vaultwarden! It’s just the server; you use the same Bitwarden clients.

Unless it’s a single origin bean, it’s probably a blend anyway. I just blend the leftovers with the new beans and call it a good cup. I’ll try to find a complimentary roast, though. e.g. mixing a light roast with a dark roast leads to an odd cup.

Acrylic paints are your friend here. They last a long while in their bottles and you can keep a palette for a few days when using a wet palette. start with just using a brush and jump up to an airbrush if you want to cover a bigger area or do fancy stuff (an air brush is far from required). As another commenter said, the minipainting community has a ton of resources, text and video tutorials, and willing to provide constructive feedback if you want it.

Just remember: thin your paints~

Maybe look at Astro and develop a lightweight blog post admin panel to create, edit, and delete posts. Should be relatively easy and you should be able to render out a static site from it each time you need to update it.

I’ve had a lot of success taking the rules that YNAB uses and applying to my own budgeting method. I recommend checking out Actual Budget if you’re capable of self-hosting and want a fancier software instead of a spreadsheet. The rules are key, though; pick a methodology/mindset you agree with and stick with it.

Someone alert the avali!

We could always do a simple pride pawb, too.

Jumblie #252 🟠🔵🟢🔴 5 guesses in 43s https://jumblie.com

I’ve only been playing the past handful of games but it’s a fun daily puzzle. I find it interesting that I either get sub 5 minute times or over 50 minute times. Lol

Hopefully they don’t go out of their way to try to lock you into using their VTT. I’m not a fan of Roll20 myself but as long as they let Demiplane be themselves and keep it mostly open for third party plugins to do their thing, we should be alright in the long run.

Note to self: go tent camping in Europe

I love meeting random local cats that are super chill and cuddly like this~

Sadly mice aren’t really a BIFL item given their frequent use and how switches have a lifespan before wearing out. You can surely get many many years out of one, though!

I’ve found the Logitech g502 to be my favorite overall mouse, so much so that I bought one to keep at work. The scroll wheel mode on Logi mice is lovely for precision work (clicky) or fast and smooth; a feature I missed greatly when I tried other mice. My first one started dying after 5 years but that was used for regular gaming sessions on the daily.

Don’t be afraid of the extra buttons on gaming mice, either. You can always just not use them but I’ve found the buttons on top incredibly useful as an undo/redo pair and makes working in anything so much nicer.

That being said, the best mouse is the one you find comfortable. Build quality is kinda the same amongst most brands. If you can work with circuits, repair is easy for any mouse. Optical switches and scroll wheels are cool but will need more stringent cleaning (my Corsair M65 had issues regularly because of cat hair somehow sneaking in).

I usually just deep clean once a year and wash the floor multiple times over until it’s pretty clean. Then I let my robot vacuum/mop keep it mostly clean twice a week the rest of the year. The robovac helps enforce a cleaner lifestyle by ensuring things aren’t left out and about. The floors will never be perfectly clean though, just the nature of life~

As for everything else, I set reoccurring calendar tasks to space it out but I try to do one area per weekend. Keeps cleaning manageable but regular.

Since you mention wanting to filter really well, I would recommend you take a look at chemex. It’s a pour over type of brewer but their smaller model is for a single serving and will be more lenient with the pour method since the chemex filters are so dense. Other pour over brewers will require more of a setup to maintain consistency (but you can also tweak the brew to your exact liking in this regard!).

Water temp and grind size are somewhat critical for quality coffee but you don’t need it right off the bat of course. I would get a grinder before a kettle, tbh; fresh grounds make a bigger difference than a few degrees difference in water temp. Do work on “calibrating” your water temp in whatever method you use, though. If you microwave the water, figure out how long to let it cool before it reaches 200 or whichever temp you find brews best for your beans.

Search for local roasters and buy some beans from them. Keep searching until you find a brand you like. Grocery store beans are very mid. (There are many weekly “drop” style bean shippers that are pricey but let you discover online roasters that will ship you beans; it’s been invaluable for me to find really good roasts!)

As for cold brew, it’s a separate beast entirely and I wouldn’t explore it just yet. I used to make large batches for my nitro setup and did that in a bucket. Definitely super smooth but a bit more work. You can make smaller batches with a French press. I’ve always gotten my presses from IKEA because they’re cheap yet effective. Far from fancy. I would never consider heating up cold brew personally.

It depends what you are painting! If you’re looking at smaller models/tabletop minis, you should take a look at setups used in the minipainting communities. Larger models might benefit from different setups. I know I didn’t want to start cheap and have to upgrade later, so I jumped straight for the Iwata HP CS. The dual action is super nice to have (not a must have though). I’d also recommend spending more on a better compressor before a brush (I got a simple 1gal compressor from California Air Tools).

They have a few plans, but the cheapest is $5/mo. If you go past the allotted searches it’s pay per search after that (at a very tiny cost).

I switched to DDG when Google started adding cards at the bottom of the first page and made search results utterly useless for me. DDG wasn’t bad but it still felt like something was missing or some results were flooded by a specific site. Kagi went the extra step to group results from a site sorta like how Google has.

Ultimately it’s the benefits of old Google but some nice refinements and QoL improvements. Because it’s paid for, they don’t need to sell your data or shove paid for results down your throat.

I was informed about Kagi through one of the posts here and tried it out. It’s quite amazing how much better it is compared to even DDG. I didn’t mind DDG but it felt “old” but Kagi seems to prioritize user experience over everything else. It may not be free, but it’s worth the cost for me.

The term you are looking for is “parametric”. You might be able to find a design you need through the many 3D printing file sites using that term. FreeCAD and Fusion360 are open used but another is OpenSCAD if you are more programming savvy than modeling savvy. There are plenty of recipes for threads in there to make your relatively simple design request here.

Tons of good and free options, you just gotta pick which one looks easiest for you.

From the article, you can get a detailed usage history of MTA transactions by simply supplying the credit card number (which they state can very often be bought on the dark web). The lack of identity confirmation to pull the report is the concern.

Because you’re tied to their DNS without paying a hefty fee to use outside name servers. But there’s always Porkbun for nearly as cheap but no strings attached.

Keep in mind that any hobby printer, especially those under ~$/€1k are subject to needing some level of tinkering to get reliable printing. If speed is unimportant, any of the options you provide will be a good fit. You will benefit from running some basic tuning for each spool of filament to get the best print quality. The speed can be dialed in to reduce failures but not take forever.

Build plate finish is more of a personal preference when it comes to PLA. Textured plate will provide slightly better grip to prevent the print from popping off mid-print, but it’s a visible and tactile texture to that surface. It would probably be best to have a both a texture and smooth plate on hand long term.

Enclosure mainly comes into play if you print high-shrink materials like ABS or ASA. If you don’t like to tinker, I wouldn’t try to enclose a prusa or ender and would save up for a design built for it. If you don’t mind tinkering a bit, you can always add the enclosure later.

Buying a used printer isn’t a terrible option, but I would get eyes on first to ensure it prints as-is, especially since you want it to be plug and play. People sell printers for a variety of reasons such as upgrading, lack of interest, lack of funding, etc.